00:01 - 00:05

I'm converting my old golf cart from lat

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acid batteries to lithium but I don't

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want it to cost more than the cart is

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actually worth which might be I don't

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know $1,000 on a good day stick around

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I'll show you what I got going

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[Music]

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on I am so done with lead acid batteries

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this is the third set I've had in this

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golf cart and these are now toast also

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there's a myriad of problems with this

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type of battery and replacing them with

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the same type doesn't make any sense

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when the alternatives are so much better

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and affordable now and therefore now

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that I have to replace these I'm going

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to be switching over to a lithium

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battery now converting your golf cart

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from lat acid to lithium is not quite as

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simple as just pulling out all your

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batteries putting a lithium battery in

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hooking up a couple of cables there's a

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little bit more to it than that I've

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ordered the specialty components that I

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need to complete this conversion from a

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few different sources now this is not

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going to be some long unboxing video but

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I will provide more information on the

01:05 - 01:11

components as I install them just an FYI

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this is not a detailed step-by-step

01:11 - 01:15

instruction video on doing a lithium

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conversion but rather an overview of the

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steps involved with some good to know

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information along the way however if you

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have any questions about anything in

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particular leave that in the comments

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and I'll respond with as much detail as

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I can now let's take a look at the

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battery this is the loan battery that

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I'll be installing It's a 36v 65 amp

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lithium iron phosphate battery from

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enjoybot with self-heating self-heating

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what's that lithium cells can be damaged

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if they're charged when the temperature

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is too low self-heating batteries have a

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heating element that will warm the cells

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before it allows the battery to be

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charged I use my golf cart year round to

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get around the farm and I live in

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Michigan so there will be times when I

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need to charge the battery when it's

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freezing outside so this feature is a

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must for me obviously not something that

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everybody would need self-heating is

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just one of the functions that's handled

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by the battery management system or BMS

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a component that is internal to the

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entire unit it also prevents

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overcharging and overd discharging both

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of which can damage the battery a

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protection that lead acid batteries

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don't have the lead acid battery Ray

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that this is replacing has a rated

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capacity of about 200 amp hours so doing

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quick math you might say hey the new

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battery you're putting in has only one/

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third the capacity as the the old

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battery pack and thus only 1/3 the range

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well not really because rated capacity

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Works a bit differently with lithium

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batteries realistically you can only use

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half the amps of the r capacity of a

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lead acid battery or risk causing damage

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therefore you only have 100 usable amp

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hours from a 200 amp hour battery

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whereas lithium batteries can safely use

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100% of the rated capacity although for

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the most part you're not going to want

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to go much past 95% depth of

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discharge so if we redo the meth with

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that in mind the 65 a hour lithium

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battery has 2/3 the usable capacity as

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the old lead acid battery pack still not

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as much however consider that the

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lithium power will also weigh 330 lb

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less that's a third of the weight of the

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golf cart that will make up for some of

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the smaller overall capacity as the cart

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will be more efficient therefore you can

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really stretch your amp hour dollar the

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65 amp hour lithium battery is a common

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size to swap in for a two-seater golf

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cart you'll also see the 100 amp

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batteries used for greater range my cart

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doesn't have the room for one large

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battery unless I move the drive

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Electronics basically the speed

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controller solenoid and throttle realat

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to the side here which involves a bunch

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of fabrication that I don't feel like

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doing besides I can't find a 100 amp

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hour battery with the self heater anyway

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so the 65 it

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is this is a specialty tool it's a

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battery lifter that I have because I've

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done this job several times before and

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I'm happy to report that this should be

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the last time have to use the stupid

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thing I think it's a miracle that I

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actually found it since I last used it

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four years ago uh that's not to say that

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I can't lose a tool that I used 4

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minutes ago because that's a thing with

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me it's a good idea to take pictures of

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all the connections to the positive and

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negative hookups of the battery array

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before starting to disconnect anything

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as I'm unhooking all these batteries

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that are connected in series it reminds

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me of another benefit of this lithium

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swap the new setup will be simpler with

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less cablage and yes cablage is a word

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now and that means less points of

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failure I have had breakdowns where a

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cable was the problem it's interesting

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now that I'm editing this video and

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watching this part and fast forward just

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how much the ride height of the cart

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keeps increasing as I continue to pull

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the batteries out and keep in mind the

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One battery I'm putting in weighs less

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than one of the six that I'm pulling

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out the battery tray in these cards is

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always susceptible to acceler ated

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corrosion because of the nature of the

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lead acid batteries this one wasn't too

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bad because I've cleaned it up and

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sealed it two times before when I

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changed the batteries so just another

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quick coat of sealer is all I needed

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here also the new battery has a bigger

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footprint than the old ones so it's not

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going to fit neatly into this battery

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tray so I'm going to put a floor in here

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for the battery to sit

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on this is the battery gauge for the old

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lead acid battery pack it's basically a

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voltmeter with a limited scale of maybe

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25 volts on the bottom end and 45 or so

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on top and this worked fine before

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because with lead acid batteries as you

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pull amps out the voltage drops in a

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linear fashion and therefore reading the

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voltage of the pack will give you a good

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idea of the remaining runtime the

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discharge curve of a lithium battery is

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much different it'll come off its peak

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voltage real quick and then sit it its

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nominal voltage for most of the cycle of

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the pack and then at the very end it

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falls off a cliff

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so if you're monitoring a lithium

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battery the same way and you read X

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number of volts you won't know if it's

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here on the graph where you got about

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80% left or here where you're in the

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40s now this graph is showing the

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discharge curve for a lithium ion

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battery but the discharge curve for

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lithium iron phosphate is nearly

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identical as shown here I don't know

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where I got this graph from but voltage

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is spelled wrong with that established

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then we're going to use this instead to

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determine the state of charge of a

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lithium battery this monitor doesn't use

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voltage but rather tracks amps in and

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amps out of the battery to determine the

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state of charge and that is accomplished

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by installing this shunt which is that

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gold block on the right side in line

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with the negative side of the battery

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and all of the current going in or out

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of the battery is measured by that shunt

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and the data is sent via cable to the

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monitor I hooked up the new battery

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temporarily just to take the cart for a

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quick spin to see how it worked and I

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don't have the 12vt system hooked up yet

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thus s lights but bonus this is an older

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cart has a steel body and therefore my

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magnetic work light works pretty good to

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light the way and this is supposed to be

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a temporary solution but it actually

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works pretty

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good although it'll be gone going

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forward I hooked up the new battery to

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the old meter just to see how much of a

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voltage sag there was under load and it

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turns out it's practically zero the

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standing voltage and the voltage gender

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load are nearly identical which is

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awesome and for comparison just for fun

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this is a video I took of the old lead

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acid battery pack before I took it out

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just to see how tired they were and this

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begs the question how much voltage s do

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you want and the answer would be

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yes I need to get behind the dash to get

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this new meter in I've already unscrewed

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and removed the cup holder here the

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bonus about building your dashboard out

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of leftover laminate flooring is the

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sheet metal flange at the top of the

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opening fits right into the factory

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groove of the flooring and then the

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bottom is held in with a couple pan head

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screws and it cleans easily with a

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Swiffer this is the data cable that

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connects to the monitor up front to the

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shunt right back here where I mounted it

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on this back plane and now this is not

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one of those newer carts that has

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channels in the floor where you can run

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wiring up to the front so I need to get

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it through one of these looms that runs

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underneath the cart to the front this is

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stuff that I add did years ago when I

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first bought the cart and this cable

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does need to be protected because of the

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way I used the cart now when I first got

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it it was onroad only but then after I

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bought the farm then I uh right bought

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the farm is not a good term when I

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purchased the farm I brought it here I

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started taking it Offroad into the

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fields and stuff like that and now the

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bottom is susceptible to damage you know

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like this now you're going to love this

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now this box right here this is not

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Factory I added this as an acoustic

08:58 - 09:02

enclosure for for the subwoofers on the

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other side uh now I need to run that

09:02 - 09:07

data cable up through here so I need to

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pull the panel off so I can get access

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and what did I find inside some damn

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chipmunk is using this for a storage

09:12 - 09:16

facility and I don't know when this

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happened because I rarely leave the cart

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outside when it's not in use but this is

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just a reminder of why I hate chipmunks

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and squirrels uh and you know what so

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does my

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dog there are lithium battery monitors

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that are round that would fit right here

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into the hole from my old meter but of

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course the monitor that came with my

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enjoybot battery is rectangular because

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of course it is cutting this out to fit

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the new one is going to kind of

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suck here is the lithium battery

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installation the floor I installed over

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the existing battery tray is 3/4 in

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plywood there's a couple locator blocks

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to keep the battery from shifting I had

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some threaded Rod lying around so I put

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that through and attached it to the new

09:58 - 10:02

floor and I designed and 3D printed a

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battery hold

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[Music]

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[Applause]

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down and this here is not a hold on

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strap it is a carrying handle for the

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battery which is removable however I'm

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going to leave it on here otherwise I'll

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lose it on a more positive note we'll

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take a look at the connections to the

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plus side of the battery most of the

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wires and cables that connected to the

10:25 - 10:28

positive log on the old battery bank

10:26 - 10:31

will connect here the positive motor

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cable runs to the speed controller as

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before now keep in mind this is a way

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old golf cart so your connections may

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vary especially those where everything

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wires into the controller or has an

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onboard computer one of these 14 gauge

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wires runs to the key switch turning the

10:44 - 10:48

key does what it always did which is

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energize the dry solenoid circuit the

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dry solenoid is that click you here when

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you push on the

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pedal another connection Powers the DC

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todc converter of course that's what

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provides the 12vt power for the

10:59 - 11:04

accessories lights radio and so on now

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that's not a direct hookup it's actually

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switched through this relay which is

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energized when the key switch is turned

11:08 - 11:12

on and that's a new circuit that I

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branched from the key switch now it's my

11:12 - 11:15

understanding that this can be trickier

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with some other golf carts because the

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key switch circuit is deenergized when

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the forward and reverse selector is in

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neutral in which case all your

11:21 - 11:25

accessories will switch off momentarily

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when you change direction not going to

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be the case with mine as that key switch

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circuit is independent so that's good

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and you might ask why does that

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Transformer have to be switched if you

11:34 - 11:38

just turned off all the 12vt accessories

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won't it just stop drawing power from

11:38 - 11:42

the

11:39 - 11:44

battery no even if there's no load on

11:42 - 11:47

the 12vt side the converter will

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continue to use some power not a lot but

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we still need to have it switched off to

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eliminate what is essentially a

11:50 - 11:55

parasitic drain if not in

11:52 - 11:57

use ultimately there'll be another line

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here for the charger possibly it'll go

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to the external Port like before or it

12:00 - 12:04

might be wired into an onboard charger

12:02 - 12:06

that has yet to be

12:04 - 12:08

determined one thing from the original

12:06 - 12:10

cart schematic that used to be connected

12:08 - 12:13

to the positive here that never will be

12:10 - 12:13

again is the reverse

12:14 - 12:18

buzzer I disconnected that nonsense a

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long time ago and even if I wanted to

12:18 - 12:23

hook it back up I couldn't it's only 6

12:21 - 12:25

Vols it was originally bridged across

12:23 - 12:28

the PSE of Just One battery I might even

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just hook it up across the full 36v load

12:28 - 12:34

to fry it on purpose you know just

12:31 - 12:36

because and lastly a new line that goes

12:34 - 12:38

to power the electronics of the shunt

12:36 - 12:41

not only does it need some power to run

12:38 - 12:44

the circuitry but it also supplies power

12:41 - 12:46

to the module on the

12:44 - 12:49

dash and speaking of the shunt and I

12:46 - 12:51

don't mean to be negative here but the B

12:49 - 12:53

minus terminal of the shunt runs with

12:51 - 12:55

the battery cable to the minus side of

12:53 - 12:57

the battery these are the only two

12:55 - 12:59

connections to these terminals

12:57 - 13:02

everything else 36volt grounds will

12:59 - 13:04

connect to the P minus side of the shunt

13:02 - 13:06

that includes the negative battery cable

13:04 - 13:08

that runs to the speed controller and

13:06 - 13:10

also the line for the charger this way

13:08 - 13:12

any current running in or out of the

13:10 - 13:15

battery goes through the shunt and is

13:12 - 13:17

metered back to the DC to DC step down

13:15 - 13:20

converter for a minute sometimes also

13:17 - 13:23

called a buck converter that's Buck

13:20 - 13:25

converter the 12vt line has a maximum

13:23 - 13:27

output of 20 amps and it runs directly

13:25 - 13:29

to the main power switch on the

13:27 - 13:32

dashboard all the 12vt except

13:29 - 13:33

accessories Branch from there I added

13:32 - 13:36

this indicator that's on anytime the

13:33 - 13:38

12vt system is on that way it's a

13:36 - 13:42

reminder that that converter is powered

13:38 - 13:42

up and to turn off the key if not

13:42 - 13:46

needed one of the catches to going to

13:44 - 13:48

lithium though is that you need a

13:46 - 13:50

lithium specific charger and that's not

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necessarily a bad thing especially if

13:50 - 13:54

you have one like this which is about

13:52 - 13:56

the size of one of those old lead acid

13:54 - 13:58

batteries and probably weighs about as

13:56 - 13:59

much as one two it's not exactly

13:58 - 14:02

portable and you're certainly not

13:59 - 14:04

putting it on board the golf cart

14:02 - 14:07

currently I have this portable charger

14:04 - 14:09

specifically for a 36v lithium

14:07 - 14:11

battery so for now this is how I charge

14:09 - 14:12

clamp the positive directly to the

14:11 - 14:14

battery and don't forget we don't

14:12 - 14:16

connect directly to the negative

14:14 - 14:17

terminal but rather the P minus side of

14:16 - 14:19

the

14:17 - 14:21

shunt in the future I'll either adapt

14:19 - 14:23

the charger leads to use an external

14:21 - 14:26

charging port or I might get an onboard

14:23 - 14:27

charger which would Mount right here I

14:26 - 14:30

got the battery monitor set up and all

14:27 - 14:33

the settings in and and uh this could

14:30 - 14:34

actually be a whole video in itself and

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I'm not even sure if I get the settings

14:34 - 14:39

right the instructions were pretty much

14:37 - 14:41

useless I had to do some digging around

14:39 - 14:43

on the internet to see uh what some of

14:41 - 14:45

these settings might be and again I'm

14:43 - 14:47

still not sure if I have them right but

14:45 - 14:48

I think I have him close enough to be

14:47 - 14:51

able to do a little

14:48 - 14:53

testing right now I'm sitting in the

14:51 - 14:55

cart still uh I don't mean I'm still

14:53 - 14:57

sitting in the cart I mean I'm sitting

14:55 - 15:00

in the cart and I'm not moving the

14:57 - 15:02

cart's not moving and what the battery

15:00 - 15:04

monitor is telling me is that there are

15:02 - 15:08

60 amp hours left in the battery which

15:04 - 15:11

is 94% full the current voltage is

15:08 - 15:14

39.4 it's drawing 1.51 amps right now

15:11 - 15:17

because the lights are on uh and that is

15:14 - 15:20

59.9 watts and it can sustain this state

15:17 - 15:22

for almost 39 hours before the battery

15:20 - 15:25

goes dead of course most of these

15:22 - 15:27

numbers are going to change once I start

15:25 - 15:29

driving before I go out for my little

15:27 - 15:31

late night test drive couple couple

15:29 - 15:33

things I want to mention not related to

15:31 - 15:36

the battery swap per se but it is golf

15:33 - 15:37

cart related as I mentioned earlier this

15:36 - 15:39

is an older golf cart and it has this

15:37 - 15:41

stubby little Ford reverse selector at

15:39 - 15:43

the front of the seat pedestal I didn't

15:41 - 15:45

realize how awful and awkward it was

15:43 - 15:47

until I got this aftermarket shifter

15:45 - 15:49

lever so much easier to reach and less

15:47 - 15:51

effort to move if you have a cart with

15:49 - 15:54

one of these little shifters down by the

15:51 - 15:56

floor I highly recommend one like

15:54 - 15:58

this it's dark outside right now and

15:56 - 16:00

that reminds me of something else and

15:58 - 16:02

that is those dags with these obnoxious

16:00 - 16:03

lighting setups the ones that drive

16:02 - 16:05

around the campground blinding everybody

16:03 - 16:07

they pass on the road and all the people

16:05 - 16:09

sitting around their campfires and they

16:07 - 16:11

Disturbed the wife and kids who are

16:09 - 16:13

already asleep in the camper this is my

16:11 - 16:16

more reasonable lighting solution two

16:13 - 16:18

six element single row LED driving

16:16 - 16:20

lights they light up just what I need to

16:18 - 16:21

see and not a bunch of stuff I don't

16:20 - 16:23

they're small and they can be mounted

16:21 - 16:24

out of the way where they're not

16:23 - 16:26

susceptible to damage and they're not

16:24 - 16:29

using three times the amount of power

16:26 - 16:31

from my battery than necessary

16:29 - 16:33

okay now it's time for a test drive and

16:31 - 16:36

I really can't compare this to say you

16:33 - 16:37

know a fresh set of lead acid batteries

16:36 - 16:40

cuz it's been you know 4 years since I

16:37 - 16:43

had those but I'm sure it's peier uh I

16:40 - 16:45

don't see how it couldn't not be and

16:43 - 16:47

it's driving exactly how it's supposed

16:45 - 16:50

to and now what I'm not going to be able

16:47 - 16:52

to do right now is do a range test just

16:50 - 16:54

because of the conditions it's been

16:52 - 16:55

raining like this for 2 days and we had

16:54 - 16:57

about a foot of snow on the ground

16:55 - 17:00

that's all melted now so there's a lot

16:57 - 17:03

of water that driveway is pretty soft

17:00 - 17:05

and muddy lots of Puddles all the other

17:03 - 17:07

areas the fields and the grassy areas

17:05 - 17:09

are pretty much all water logged and

17:07 - 17:11

swampy so there's nowhere I can drive

17:09 - 17:13

right now that's not going to have a lot

17:11 - 17:15

of added rolling resistance that I

17:13 - 17:17

normally wouldn't have and they're

17:15 - 17:19

calling for rain over the next couple of

17:17 - 17:22

days still and so this place isn't going

17:19 - 17:24

to dry up anytime soon therefore the

17:22 - 17:26

range test is going to have to wait for

17:24 - 17:29

another video so keep an eye out for

17:26 - 17:31

that

17:29 - 17:33

and now the big question that some might

17:31 - 17:35

be asking right now what'll it cost man

17:33 - 17:38

what will it cost at the time of this

17:35 - 17:40

recording March of 20125 a combination

17:38 - 17:43

of purchases through the enjoybot store

17:40 - 17:45

and Amazon a system similar to the one I

17:43 - 17:48

just installed would cost right around

17:45 - 17:50

$800 now the reason I say a system quote

17:48 - 17:52

similar to mine is because the offerings

17:50 - 17:55

features and package deals seem to

17:52 - 17:57

change regularly more specifically that

17:55 - 17:59

price includes an onboard charger and

17:57 - 18:02

also Bluetooth in the battery which mine

17:59 - 18:04

doesn't have and $800 is less than a new

18:02 - 18:06

set of lead acid batteries and the

18:04 - 18:08

lithium battery has a 10-year warranty

18:06 - 18:11

lead acid golf cart batteries have what

18:08 - 18:13

a oneyear warranty maybe I'll put my

18:11 - 18:15

affiliate links in the description for

18:13 - 18:17

both the enjoybot store and Amazon for

18:15 - 18:19

some of the other golf cart related

18:17 - 18:21

items shown in this video however be

18:19 - 18:23

sure to do your research first

18:21 - 18:26

especially with BMS rating if you load

18:23 - 18:27

your golf cart heavy or pull Hills a lot

18:26 - 18:30

you may need something with more than

18:27 - 18:32

100 or 120 amp's continuous

18:30 - 18:34

discharge to restate what I said earlier

18:32 - 18:36

if you have any questions on specific

18:34 - 18:38

details of the install or the components

18:36 - 18:40

be sure to ask them in the comments and

18:38 - 18:43

I'll be sure to respond as quickly as I

18:40 - 18:45

can I'll be continuing to evaluate this

18:43 - 18:47

setup further and follow up with videos

18:45 - 18:49

including a range test as soon as the

18:47 - 18:51

conditions are more typical so be sure

18:49 - 18:53

to subscribe so those videos will come

18:51 - 18:54

up on your feed when I release them

18:53 - 18:56

thanks for watching and we'll see you

18:54 - 19:12

next time

18:56 - 19:12

[Music]

Transform Your Old Golf Cart: Switching from Lead Acid to Lithium Batteries

Switching your golf cart from lead acid batteries to lithium offers extensive benefits, including weight reduction, improved performance, and longevity. However, making this transition can be complicated. In this guide, we’ll discuss the essential components required for this conversion, the advantages of lithium technology over lead acid, and the overall costs involved. This overview aims to provide practical insights and considerations for those contemplating this upgrade.

Why Transition from Lead Acid to Lithium Batteries?

Most golf cart owners eventually face the challenge of replacing worn-out lead acid batteries. After previously replacing batteries multiple times, many users find that lead acid batteries come with countless problems, such as weight issues and shorter lifespans. Switching to lithium batteries has become increasingly popular due to their self-heating capabilities, higher efficiency, and decreased weight.

Weight and Efficiency Benefits

For instance, a typical lead acid battery pack can weigh about 600 lbs, while a replacement lithium battery might weigh only 300 lbs. This weight reduction significantly enhances efficiency since a lighter cart requires less energy to move, allowing users to effectively stretch their amp hour dollar. The lithium battery being discussed here holds a nominal capacity of 65 amp hours, providing two-thirds of the usable capacity compared to a traditional lead acid pack but with a much lighter footprint.

Key Components for Successful Conversion

Converting your golf cart battery system is not as simple as merely swapping out batteries. Here are the essential components required for your upgrade:

  1. Lithium Battery: In our case, a 36V 65 amp lithium iron phosphate battery was chosen for its unique features like self-heating.

  2. Battery Management System (BMS): The BMS protects the battery from overcharging and discharging, ensuring a longer life—a feature absent in lead acid systems.

  3. Battery Monitor: It helps track the battery's performance and state of charge, which is crucial since lithium batteries have a different discharge curve than lead acid. Instead of linear voltage drops, lithium batteries operate with peaks and then remain stable before dropping sharply towards the end of the charge cycle.

  4. Battery Lifters: Given that old golf cart batteries can become quite heavy, specialized tools can facilitate their removal and installation.

  5. Shunt: This monitor tracks all incoming and outgoing current, providing a more accurate reading of the battery’s condition.

Steps to Undertake the Conversion

Starting the conversion process requires careful disconnection of the existing lead acid battery setup. Before disconnecting, take pictures of the connections for easy reference. As this video shares, here’s a simplified series of steps to follow:

  1. Remove the Old Batteries: Use battery lifters or help to avoid injury while removing the heavy lead acid batteries.

  2. Clean Battery Tray: Inspect and clean the area for corrosion, applying a suitable sealer where necessary.

  3. Install the New Lithium Battery: Depending on the size and design of your new battery, you might need to install a new base or floor to accommodate the different footprint.

  4. Configure Battery Monitor and Shunt: Secure the shunt and battery monitor in the dashboard and run the necessary wire connections.

  5. Test the System: After installation, take the cart for a spin to see how efficiently it operates in comparison to the old lead acid setup.

Cost Analysis: Is it Worth It?

At the time of this project, a complete conversion system is estimated at around $800. This cost encapsulates a new lithium battery, battery monitor, and necessary wiring—potentially less than the price of a new set of lead acid batteries, which typically only last for a year. Remember, lithium batteries can provide a usable lifespan of a decade! Not only do lithium batteries save money in the long run, but they also offer superior performance and reliability over traditional options.

Conclusion: A New Era for Golf Carts

Converting your golf cart from lead acid to lithium batteries is an investment in performance, reliability, and efficiency. Whether you are a casual golfer or an off-road enthusiast, making the switch is well worth the consideration, especially when weighing time and money spent on constant lead acid replacements.

And so, the resulting transformation means that future weekends on the green or farm will be powered by a lightweight, efficient system that stands the test of time. Stay tuned, as more updates and range tests will follow soon, allowing you to see firsthand how this conversion fares in real-world conditions. If you have questions or insights to share about your own experiences, feel free to leave a comment below!