00:00 - 00:04

hello welcome to my step-by-step

00:02 - 00:05

tutorial on how i made this two-part

00:04 - 00:08

mold

00:05 - 00:08

let's get started

00:09 - 00:12

so today my model is this cute little

00:11 - 00:15

glass bear that i found

00:12 - 00:17

at a local antique shop i thought it

00:15 - 00:20

would be a great model to replicate

00:17 - 00:23

because it's small in size and it's not

00:20 - 00:25

too complicated although it does have

00:23 - 00:26

some undercuts so it will require a

00:25 - 00:28

two-part mold

00:26 - 00:30

now to get started on a two-part mold

00:28 - 00:32

you have to decide where your parting

00:30 - 00:34

line is going to be

00:32 - 00:35

where your first side and your second

00:34 - 00:38

side of your mold will be

00:35 - 00:39

basically on this model it's pretty easy

00:38 - 00:42

to determine

00:39 - 00:44

because i can already see a line in the

00:42 - 00:46

model so i'm just going to follow that

00:44 - 00:49

natural line

00:46 - 00:50

so to begin i'm using some sculptex

00:49 - 00:52

sulfur free clay

00:50 - 00:55

it's important to use sulfur free clay

00:52 - 00:56

because most silicones will be inhibited

00:55 - 00:59

by

00:56 - 01:00

anything containing sulfur so what i'm

00:59 - 01:04

doing to begin

01:00 - 01:07

is embedding my model in this clay

01:04 - 01:09

i'm going to build up to that partition

01:07 - 01:12

line that i showed you

01:09 - 01:13

in the beginning and i'm just going to

01:12 - 01:17

slowly add pieces

01:13 - 01:20

of course now i have the video running

01:17 - 01:21

at hyperspeed because i actually work

01:20 - 01:27

very slowly and

01:21 - 01:27

we would be here for hours

01:38 - 01:42

so

01:40 - 01:44

now what you're going to see me do is

01:42 - 01:47

add a little bit more clay to build out

01:44 - 01:50

the sides of my walls here

01:47 - 01:50

and that's because you need enough room

01:50 - 01:54

to

01:50 - 01:57

make your keys which i'll be doing next

01:54 - 01:58

so i'm just building it out so i have a

01:57 - 02:01

nice

01:58 - 02:02

even border all around my model and here

02:01 - 02:05

it is all smoothed out

02:02 - 02:07

i've carefully cleaned that parting line

02:05 - 02:10

that goes around the model

02:07 - 02:11

i've cleaned up the clay everything is

02:10 - 02:13

good to go

02:11 - 02:13

for the next step

02:15 - 02:18

so to make my keys i am going to use

02:18 - 02:21

this

02:18 - 02:23

bolt it's a nice handy item i already

02:21 - 02:25

have around the house

02:23 - 02:28

i'm just going to be pressing it into

02:25 - 02:30

the clay to make an indentation

02:28 - 02:32

the purpose of making keys in your

02:30 - 02:35

two-part mold is so

02:32 - 02:37

that your side one and side two lock in

02:35 - 02:39

together

02:37 - 02:40

it helps them register perfectly so that

02:39 - 02:43

you have a nice

02:40 - 02:43

seamless casting

02:44 - 02:49

because i have a small model i don't

02:47 - 02:52

need to add many keys i'm going to

02:49 - 02:55

put them around as many as i can

02:52 - 03:05

being careful not to disturb the clay

02:55 - 03:06

around the model

03:05 - 03:08

now i've ran out of room to make

03:06 - 03:11

additional keys with my bolt

03:08 - 03:19

so i'm just using a pencil eraser to

03:11 - 03:19

just add a couple more keys

03:19 - 03:23

so in this next step i'm cleaning up my

03:22 - 03:25

model

03:23 - 03:27

this is an easy step to forget but you

03:25 - 03:29

know in the process of

03:27 - 03:31

embedding it in clay it may have some

03:29 - 03:32

residue some fingerprints

03:31 - 03:35

you just want to clean that up with a

03:32 - 03:35

little bit of alcohol

03:37 - 03:41

now we are ready to begin to build our

03:40 - 03:45

mold box

03:41 - 03:48

here i'm carefully laying out my

03:45 - 03:50

mold box walls i want to make sure that

03:48 - 03:52

they're cut to the right size

03:50 - 03:54

and i have a plan in place of how i'm

03:52 - 03:57

going to glue them down

03:54 - 03:59

for this project i'm using quarter inch

03:57 - 04:01

foam core board

03:59 - 04:03

i just had some extra laying around the

04:01 - 04:06

house it's the same stuff that you buy

04:03 - 04:06

from any craft store

04:06 - 04:12

to begin gluing them down i'm using a

04:09 - 04:12

hot glue gun

04:13 - 04:16

as i move around the model gluing my

04:15 - 04:19

walls in place

04:16 - 04:20

i want to make sure that i'm avoiding

04:19 - 04:24

any voids between

04:20 - 04:27

the clay and those walls

04:24 - 04:28

you will see that i begin adding pieces

04:27 - 04:32

of clay

04:28 - 04:43

in any gaps just to fill that void

04:32 - 04:43

prevent any silicone from leaking down

04:55 - 04:58

the next step here is to really

04:57 - 05:00

reinforce

04:58 - 05:02

all your seams with more hot glue so i'm

05:00 - 05:05

going around the bottoms

05:02 - 05:06

the edges sealing up any little nooks

05:05 - 05:08

and crannies

05:06 - 05:10

the silicone will leak out of even the

05:08 - 05:12

tiniest of pinholes

05:10 - 05:14

so go around a couple times if you have

05:12 - 05:17

to

05:14 - 05:17

now i'm going to be measuring my mold

05:17 - 05:19

box

05:17 - 05:20

i have the dimensions of my model and my

05:19 - 05:23

mold box

05:20 - 05:25

so i can determine how much silicone i

05:23 - 05:27

will need to dispense

05:25 - 05:28

i like to use the online calculator

05:27 - 05:30

found on the smooth

05:28 - 05:31

on website where i can plug in the

05:30 - 05:34

dimensions

05:31 - 05:36

and it tells me the total amount that i

05:34 - 05:38

need

05:36 - 05:39

the material that i'm using for this

05:38 - 05:43

project is mold start

05:39 - 05:44

16 fast now i'm going to show you the

05:43 - 05:48

lid here in a second

05:44 - 05:51

because it is very important to pre-mix

05:48 - 05:53

and stir each the side a and b before

05:51 - 05:53

you get started

06:00 - 06:04

now i'm ready to move on to dispensing

06:03 - 06:07

my

06:04 - 06:10

silicone and mixing it up so

06:07 - 06:10

conveniently the amount that i need will

06:10 - 06:13

fill

06:10 - 06:15

this plastic cup to the top so i'm just

06:13 - 06:18

going to go ahead and

06:15 - 06:21

put the part a into the cup let it fill

06:18 - 06:21

up to the top of the rim

06:26 - 06:31

i should also note the mix ratio on the

06:29 - 06:36

mold star 16 fast

06:31 - 06:38

is 1a to 1b by volume

06:36 - 06:39

this means that i do not need a scale to

06:38 - 06:43

measure it out

06:39 - 06:48

it's super easy to just do the 1a to 1b

06:43 - 06:51

visually in equal parts

06:48 - 06:53

okay now that i have those dispensed i

06:51 - 06:55

am ready to mix

06:53 - 06:56

at this point i am setting a clock

06:55 - 06:58

because i'm working with the fast

06:56 - 07:00

formula

06:58 - 07:01

once the part b goes into the part a

07:00 - 07:04

your

07:01 - 07:07

clock is ticking the pot life

07:04 - 07:08

is six minutes this is the working time

07:07 - 07:10

i have

07:08 - 07:11

before the silicone will start to

07:10 - 07:14

solidify

07:11 - 07:16

so i'm keeping an eye on the clock i'm

07:14 - 07:18

double mixing my material into

07:16 - 07:19

a new container scraping the sides

07:18 - 07:22

scraping the bottom

07:19 - 07:23

mixing until it becomes a consistent

07:22 - 07:27

color

07:23 - 07:29

at this point i'm ready to pour

07:27 - 07:31

here i am pouring the silicone into the

07:29 - 07:33

lowest part of my mold box

07:31 - 07:35

i'm allowing the silicone to seek its

07:33 - 07:38

own level up and around my model

07:35 - 07:42

i do this very slowly but i have it sped

07:38 - 07:42

up just for the sake of demonstration

07:42 - 07:46

purposes

07:44 - 07:48

now i'm going to allow the silicone to

07:46 - 07:51

fully cure

07:48 - 07:54

which on the moldstar 16 fast is

07:51 - 07:54

a full 30 minutes once your material is

07:54 - 07:56

cured

07:54 - 07:59

you can begin to take apart your mold

07:56 - 07:59

box

08:06 - 08:11

i'm just gently prying the walls off of

08:08 - 08:14

the silicone and the clay

08:11 - 08:17

trying not to disturb the clay

08:14 - 08:19

and i'll just remove them all

08:17 - 08:20

i'm going to quickly clean off the board

08:19 - 08:27

the next step

08:20 - 08:27

would be to remove the clay

08:30 - 08:35

the next step of course would be to be

08:32 - 08:38

putting our mold walls up again

08:35 - 08:39

again i'm also cleaning my model of any

08:38 - 08:41

clay residue

08:39 - 08:43

that may have been left behind and i'm

08:41 - 08:45

just using a little isopropyl alcohol to

08:43 - 08:45

do this

08:49 - 09:09

now i'm ready to assemble my mold box

08:52 - 09:09

around the first half of my silicone

09:10 - 09:13

okay that's looking great the next step

09:12 - 09:17

is to

09:13 - 09:19

coat your mold rubber with release spray

09:17 - 09:23

this is a very important step

09:19 - 09:25

i'm using the ease release 200

09:23 - 09:27

you're also going to want to do this in

09:25 - 09:29

a well ventilated

09:27 - 09:29

area

09:34 - 09:38

now i've got my second batch of silicone

09:36 - 09:41

already mixed up

09:38 - 09:43

and i'm ready to pour the second side of

09:41 - 09:45

my mold

09:43 - 09:47

i'm going to follow the same process by

09:45 - 09:49

pouring into

09:47 - 09:51

the lowest part of the mold box and

09:49 - 09:53

allowing the silicone to seek its own

09:51 - 09:55

level

09:53 - 09:58

i also want to note that one of the

09:55 - 09:59

reasons i like the mold star line

09:58 - 10:01

is that it does not require vacuum

09:59 - 10:04

degassing it's a

10:01 - 10:06

low viscosity which means that it flows

10:04 - 10:09

pretty easily

10:06 - 10:12

and it's not likely to entrap bubbles or

10:09 - 10:12

air into your silicone

10:14 - 10:19

now that i've filled up the second side

10:17 - 10:21

i'm going to wait that 30 minute cure

10:19 - 10:24

time again

10:21 - 10:28

now that the silicone has cured i can

10:24 - 10:28

pop off those mold box walls

10:29 - 10:33

great now we're done and we just have to

10:31 - 10:35

peel apart the two sides of our mold

10:33 - 10:37

there's a little bit of overlapping

10:35 - 10:38

silicone but if you apply some gentle

10:37 - 10:47

pressure

10:38 - 10:47

it will peel apart easily

10:57 - 11:02

and that's it i can pop my model out of

11:00 - 11:06

the mold

11:02 - 11:09

you can see perfect detail is replicated

11:06 - 11:11

on both sides of the mold

11:09 - 11:12

i can just assemble each side locks in

11:11 - 11:14

together

11:12 - 11:17

perfectly and i'm ready to move on to

11:14 - 11:17

castings

11:17 - 11:21

for this project i'll be using smooth

11:20 - 11:24

cast 326

11:21 - 11:24

and so strong colorant as always i'm

11:24 - 11:27

going to

11:24 - 11:28

thoroughly pre-mix the material by

11:27 - 11:32

shaking the

11:28 - 11:32

part a and b thoroughly

11:32 - 11:36

next i'm going to prepare my mold i'm

11:35 - 11:38

taking a few pieces

11:36 - 11:40

of rigid foam core and rubber banding

11:38 - 11:41

them to either side of the mold

11:40 - 11:45

this will give it even pressure all

11:41 - 11:45

around and prevent it from leaking

11:49 - 11:52

at this point i'm ready to dispense my

11:51 - 11:55

material

11:52 - 11:59

smooth cast 326 can be mixed

11:55 - 12:00

by measuring one part a to one part b by

11:59 - 12:02

volume

12:00 - 12:04

these equal parts by volume make it

12:02 - 12:09

super easy to

12:04 - 12:09

dispense and measure accurately

12:09 - 12:13

for my first casting i'm going to be

12:11 - 12:15

using the so strong red

12:13 - 12:17

colorant i just show a little bit there

12:15 - 12:19

on my stick

12:17 - 12:20

a little bit goes a long way i'm

12:19 - 12:23

stirring it into the part b

12:20 - 12:25

to achieve the color i want before i mix

12:23 - 12:25

them together

12:28 - 12:31

all right we are now ready to mix i'm

12:30 - 12:34

going to pour the

12:31 - 12:36

part a into a new clean container making

12:34 - 12:38

sure to scrape the sides and bottom

12:36 - 12:40

and get as much of that material out of

12:38 - 12:42

the cup as possible

12:40 - 12:43

and then i will repeat the process with

12:42 - 12:47

the part b

12:43 - 12:47

and begin mixing them together

12:50 - 12:54

oh but before i do that i'm just going

12:52 - 12:56

to grab my phone and set a timer

12:54 - 12:58

i like to set a timer when working with

12:56 - 12:59

materials so i can keep track of the pot

12:58 - 13:03

life

12:59 - 13:05

the pot life on the smooth cast 326

13:03 - 13:06

is seven to nine minutes this is the

13:05 - 13:09

working time you have

13:06 - 13:10

before the material starts to set up and

13:09 - 13:12

you can see here i've mixed the material

13:10 - 13:20

and then i double mixed it by pouring it

13:12 - 13:22

into a second clean container

13:20 - 13:23

now i'm going to pour it into my mold

13:22 - 13:26

and i'm

13:23 - 13:28

pouring just a little bit at a time to

13:26 - 13:30

coat some of the undercuts since i did

13:28 - 13:31

not add any vents

13:30 - 13:34

and then i'm going to fill the rest of

13:31 - 13:37

my mold up and pour the excess

13:34 - 13:40

in a cup on the side and thumbs up

13:37 - 13:42

because i finished within my pot life an

13:40 - 13:44

hour later i can see the material and my

13:42 - 13:46

cup is cured

13:44 - 13:49

so i know that i'm safe to de-mold my

13:46 - 13:49

casting

13:54 - 13:58

the mold easily splits apart and i can

13:57 - 14:03

pull out

13:58 - 14:03

my first casting and it was a success

14:04 - 14:08

thank you for watching my process on how

14:06 - 14:10

to make a two-part mold in castings

14:08 - 14:13

and i hope it helps you in your own

14:10 - 14:17

projects going forward

14:13 - 14:17

good luck

Mastering the Art of Two-Part Mold Making: A Step-by-Step Tutorial

Creating a two-part mold can seem daunting, but with the right guidance, you can replicate intricate designs like a cute glass bear from an antique shop effortlessly. This article breaks down the key steps involved in making a two-part mold, ensuring you achieve perfect detail and seamless casting every time.

The Importance of a Two-Part Mold

When replicating complex objects, using a two-part mold is critical, particularly when your model has undercuts, as it allows for easier removal of the casting. Starting with a clear understanding of your parting line is essential, as it determines how your mold will be divided. In this tutorial, we will use a simple yet effective model, ensuring each step is easy to follow, whether you're a novice or an experienced mold maker.

Materials Needed for Mold Making

Before diving into the process, here's a quick list of materials you'll need:

  • Sulfur-free clay: Prevents silicone inhibition.
  • Mold star 16 fast silicone: A reliable material for precise molds.
  • Foam core board: To construct the mold box.
  • Hot glue gun: For assembling the mold box.
  • Spray mold release agent: Ensures easy de-molding.
  • Casting material (e.g., Smooth-Cast 326): To create your replicas.
  • Colorants: To add color to your casting.

It's important to have everything ready to avoid delays in your project.

Step 1: Preparing the Model

The first step is determining your parting line. For the glass bear model, the pre-existing line on the glass makes it easier to follow. Once this is established, use sulfur-free clay to embed your model, making sure to build up the sides adequately. This prevents any silicone from leaking and ensures a clean cast.

Key Tip:

While working with clay, keep an eye on the undercuts. You’ll need enough clay to create keys that will help align both sides of your mold.

Step 2: Building the Mold Box

Using quarter-inch foam core board, construct a mold box around the clay-embedded model. Make sure it's snug against the model, and seal any gaps with additional clay. This is crucial to prevent leakage when pouring silicone.

Handy Suggestion:

Use a hot glue gun to firmly hold the box edges together, reinforcing joints with extra glue. Even tiny holes can lead to unwanted leaks.

Step 3: Mixing and Pouring the Silicone

Now it’s time to mix the silicone. Use a silicone calculator to determine the required amounts based on your mold box dimensions. As a rule of thumb, the mixture ratio for Mold Star 16 Fast is 1:1.

Timing Is Critical:

Once mixed, you have a limited working time of six minutes before the silicone sets. Pour it slowly, allowing it to level itself around the model. Patience is key here; pouring too quickly may trap air bubbles, leading to imperfections in the cast.

Step 4: Curing and Demolding

After pouring the silicone, allow it to cure for about 30 minutes. Once cured, gently remove the mold box. Clean any stray clay from the silicone and prepare for the second half of the mold.

Don’t Skip This Step:

Apply a release agent to the first half of the mold before pouring the second batch of silicone, helping ensure both halves separate easily.

Step 5: Making the Casting

Once both silicone halves are cured and your mold is assembled, you’re ready for casting. Prepare your casting material—like Smooth-Cast 326—mixing in colorants as desired. Remember to set a timer for the pot life; mixing and pouring must be done quickly to avoid premature setting.

Final Pouring Tip:

Pour slowly into the mold, focusing on the undercuts first to ensure they fill properly. After all the material is in the mold, allow it to cure fully before demolding.

The Big Reveal: Your Finished Casting

After curing, gently pull apart the silicone mold. You should be greeted with a well-defined replica of your glass bear model. Each detail should be crisp, showcasing the effectiveness of your two-part mold.

What's Next?

With your two-part mold complete, the world of casting opens up! Experiment with different colors and materials to create unique pieces. Remember, practice makes perfect, so keep refining your technique!

By following these steps meticulously, you’ll master the art of two-part mold making. Now go forth and create remarkable castings of your own!