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hello welcome to my step-by-step
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tutorial on how i made this two-part
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let's get started
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so today my model is this cute little
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glass bear that i found
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at a local antique shop i thought it
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would be a great model to replicate
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because it's small in size and it's not
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too complicated although it does have
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some undercuts so it will require a
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two-part mold
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now to get started on a two-part mold
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you have to decide where your parting
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line is going to be
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where your first side and your second
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side of your mold will be
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basically on this model it's pretty easy
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to determine
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because i can already see a line in the
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model so i'm just going to follow that
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natural line
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so to begin i'm using some sculptex
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sulfur free clay
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it's important to use sulfur free clay
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because most silicones will be inhibited
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anything containing sulfur so what i'm
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doing to begin
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is embedding my model in this clay
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i'm going to build up to that partition
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line that i showed you
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in the beginning and i'm just going to
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slowly add pieces
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of course now i have the video running
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at hyperspeed because i actually work
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very slowly and
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we would be here for hours
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now what you're going to see me do is
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add a little bit more clay to build out
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the sides of my walls here
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and that's because you need enough room
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make your keys which i'll be doing next
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so i'm just building it out so i have a
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even border all around my model and here
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it is all smoothed out
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i've carefully cleaned that parting line
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that goes around the model
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i've cleaned up the clay everything is
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for the next step
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so to make my keys i am going to use
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bolt it's a nice handy item i already
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have around the house
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i'm just going to be pressing it into
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the clay to make an indentation
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the purpose of making keys in your
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two-part mold is so
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that your side one and side two lock in
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it helps them register perfectly so that
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you have a nice
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seamless casting
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because i have a small model i don't
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need to add many keys i'm going to
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put them around as many as i can
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being careful not to disturb the clay
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around the model
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now i've ran out of room to make
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additional keys with my bolt
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so i'm just using a pencil eraser to
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just add a couple more keys
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so in this next step i'm cleaning up my
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this is an easy step to forget but you
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know in the process of
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embedding it in clay it may have some
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residue some fingerprints
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you just want to clean that up with a
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little bit of alcohol
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now we are ready to begin to build our
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here i'm carefully laying out my
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mold box walls i want to make sure that
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they're cut to the right size
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and i have a plan in place of how i'm
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going to glue them down
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for this project i'm using quarter inch
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foam core board
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i just had some extra laying around the
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house it's the same stuff that you buy
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from any craft store
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to begin gluing them down i'm using a
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hot glue gun
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as i move around the model gluing my
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walls in place
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i want to make sure that i'm avoiding
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any voids between
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the clay and those walls
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you will see that i begin adding pieces
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in any gaps just to fill that void
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prevent any silicone from leaking down
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the next step here is to really
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all your seams with more hot glue so i'm
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going around the bottoms
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the edges sealing up any little nooks
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and crannies
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the silicone will leak out of even the
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tiniest of pinholes
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so go around a couple times if you have
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now i'm going to be measuring my mold
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i have the dimensions of my model and my
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so i can determine how much silicone i
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will need to dispense
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i like to use the online calculator
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found on the smooth
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on website where i can plug in the
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and it tells me the total amount that i
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the material that i'm using for this
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project is mold start
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16 fast now i'm going to show you the
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lid here in a second
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because it is very important to pre-mix
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and stir each the side a and b before
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you get started
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now i'm ready to move on to dispensing
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silicone and mixing it up so
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conveniently the amount that i need will
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this plastic cup to the top so i'm just
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going to go ahead and
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put the part a into the cup let it fill
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up to the top of the rim
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i should also note the mix ratio on the
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mold star 16 fast
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is 1a to 1b by volume
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this means that i do not need a scale to
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measure it out
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it's super easy to just do the 1a to 1b
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visually in equal parts
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okay now that i have those dispensed i
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am ready to mix
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at this point i am setting a clock
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because i'm working with the fast
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once the part b goes into the part a
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clock is ticking the pot life
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is six minutes this is the working time
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before the silicone will start to
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so i'm keeping an eye on the clock i'm
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double mixing my material into
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a new container scraping the sides
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scraping the bottom
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mixing until it becomes a consistent
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at this point i'm ready to pour
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here i am pouring the silicone into the
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lowest part of my mold box
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i'm allowing the silicone to seek its
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own level up and around my model
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i do this very slowly but i have it sped
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up just for the sake of demonstration
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now i'm going to allow the silicone to
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which on the moldstar 16 fast is
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a full 30 minutes once your material is
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you can begin to take apart your mold
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i'm just gently prying the walls off of
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the silicone and the clay
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trying not to disturb the clay
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and i'll just remove them all
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i'm going to quickly clean off the board
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the next step
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would be to remove the clay
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the next step of course would be to be
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putting our mold walls up again
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again i'm also cleaning my model of any
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clay residue
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that may have been left behind and i'm
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just using a little isopropyl alcohol to
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now i'm ready to assemble my mold box
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around the first half of my silicone
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okay that's looking great the next step
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coat your mold rubber with release spray
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this is a very important step
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i'm using the ease release 200
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you're also going to want to do this in
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a well ventilated
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now i've got my second batch of silicone
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already mixed up
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and i'm ready to pour the second side of
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i'm going to follow the same process by
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pouring into
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the lowest part of the mold box and
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allowing the silicone to seek its own
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i also want to note that one of the
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reasons i like the mold star line
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is that it does not require vacuum
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degassing it's a
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low viscosity which means that it flows
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pretty easily
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and it's not likely to entrap bubbles or
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air into your silicone
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now that i've filled up the second side
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i'm going to wait that 30 minute cure
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now that the silicone has cured i can
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pop off those mold box walls
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great now we're done and we just have to
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peel apart the two sides of our mold
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there's a little bit of overlapping
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silicone but if you apply some gentle
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it will peel apart easily
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and that's it i can pop my model out of
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you can see perfect detail is replicated
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on both sides of the mold
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i can just assemble each side locks in
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perfectly and i'm ready to move on to
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for this project i'll be using smooth
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and so strong colorant as always i'm
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thoroughly pre-mix the material by
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part a and b thoroughly
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next i'm going to prepare my mold i'm
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taking a few pieces
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of rigid foam core and rubber banding
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them to either side of the mold
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this will give it even pressure all
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around and prevent it from leaking
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at this point i'm ready to dispense my
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smooth cast 326 can be mixed
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by measuring one part a to one part b by
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these equal parts by volume make it
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super easy to
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dispense and measure accurately
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for my first casting i'm going to be
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using the so strong red
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colorant i just show a little bit there
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a little bit goes a long way i'm
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stirring it into the part b
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to achieve the color i want before i mix
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them together
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all right we are now ready to mix i'm
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going to pour the
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part a into a new clean container making
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sure to scrape the sides and bottom
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and get as much of that material out of
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the cup as possible
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and then i will repeat the process with
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and begin mixing them together
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oh but before i do that i'm just going
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to grab my phone and set a timer
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i like to set a timer when working with
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materials so i can keep track of the pot
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the pot life on the smooth cast 326
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is seven to nine minutes this is the
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working time you have
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before the material starts to set up and
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you can see here i've mixed the material
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and then i double mixed it by pouring it
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into a second clean container
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now i'm going to pour it into my mold
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pouring just a little bit at a time to
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coat some of the undercuts since i did
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not add any vents
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and then i'm going to fill the rest of
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my mold up and pour the excess
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in a cup on the side and thumbs up
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because i finished within my pot life an
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hour later i can see the material and my
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cup is cured
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so i know that i'm safe to de-mold my
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the mold easily splits apart and i can
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my first casting and it was a success
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thank you for watching my process on how
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to make a two-part mold in castings
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and i hope it helps you in your own
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projects going forward